hoser wrote:
Jay727 wrote:
I would file/sand the high spots off the piston, file the burrs off around the ring grooves and make sure the ring lands are clean and the rings move freely in the grooves.
Drill a 3rd lube hole.
Relive the bridge in the exhaust port slightly. I will let the 350 experts chime in on the details.
When you push the wrist pin through the piston does it slide in and out normally, sometimes when you over heat the piston it will collapse the skirts of the piston slightly and you can feel resistance when installing removing the wrist pin. Its not a big concern if you can install and remove without a wrist pin puller.
DO NOT KEEP FEEDING IT PISTONS until you get it running right and the jetting safe, but at the same time consider that piston needing replaced, by now your good at removing the cylinder you might pull the cylinder off with the head still on in 5-10 hrs of run time and inspect the piston, you will need a second person to do this so you can focus on the rings and piston, have someone slowly drop the cylinder in place as you compress the rings and guide the piston.
Check the Vacuum line that runs to the fuel pump make sure its not leaking in the line or at the ends and sucking air, remove the fuel filter and back flush it with carb cleaner and give it a lite blow with compressed air see what comes out. Check float level.
After a LONG wide open throttle run do not just let off the gas, when you let off pull the choke and give it a slug of cool oil and fuel, close the choke and blip the throttle a few times.
What is the air temps when your running this and having the problems?
What am I forgetting guys?
Said I relieved the exhaust bridge.
Said I bought a gravity feed carburetor, said it's never had the OEM fuel tank or system since I've owned it.
LMAO, how do you get a LONG
WOT (Wide Open Throttle) (Wide Open Throttle) run? How do you run it 5-10 hours?
I've tuned the new carb so it gets a nice medium brown colored spark plug, both times. First was with the OEM carb, second was with the 36mm carb. Still seized. It's not fuel delivery. It's not an air leak or jetting. How does a person follow the recommended clearances and break in by the word and it still fails?
I never checked the compression, it has the pull starter, compression was good.
I guess compression is either too high or it's an ignition problem.
I will say I have a 1986 CR80 with a 105cc big bore on it and ran 93 octane with 215 psi compression right after break in. Ran it WFO for two miles straight. Pulled the cylinder off it, still looks brand new. (hate to say this because is it going to lead to a whole new topic of "this is why", good chance)
Let me tell you guys a story.
I have two trucks with LS swaps that I did 100% myself. Nearly identical engines, 6 liters.
They both have Summit Racing Pro LS cams. Due to supply I had to buy one cam in a kit with single beehive springs. The first one I built I used their double valve springs in.
The one with the beehive spring doesn't seem to have the top end like the one with the double springs. AND their cam calls for 150 lbs seat pressure but the beehive springs only have 130.
So I call Summits tech support, tell them my concerns about valve spring pressures. First thing they say is "what bottom end you got in this, you shouldn't be revving it that high if you have a stock bottom end" I said I'm asking about valve springs, not the bottom end. Then they ask about can my fuel system support the rpm I'm trying to run, because it takes a lot, blah, blah, blah. I GUESS THEY MISSED THE PART WHERE I SAID I HAVE ONE
Engine RUNNING THE RPM I'M TRYING TO GET THE SECOND ONE TO RUN AT. Called a few days later, same dumb bullshit.
Also posted about it on a forum. Guess how that went....yea just like on here kind of. People miss key points and make me out to be a dumb ass. After several posts I said ((Bad Word)) all this. This was early last year.
About a month ago I was checking an email account I never use and saw where someone asked a question on that thread, so I logged in. They asked if I ever got it figured out. I said no and said why with a lot of cuss words. Why? Because I ask a question on a forum and to tech support and dude I don't know what the hell. Why do people ask questions about things I've taken hours to explain?
Like here I relieved the exhaust bridge. Hey you might want to relieve the exhaust bridge. I have a single tank with a gravity feed set up. Hey you might want to check the vacuum line to the fuel pump. WHY ARE YOU ASKING THIS?
Back to my other story. The guy asked the question and it opened up the discussion again. So there I am THE DUMBASS. Why are you running weaker vale springs than whats recommended? BECAUSE THEY SELL IT IN A ((Bad Word)) KIT! I said ((Bad Word)) it, I'm throwing Summit under the bus big time. I've had enough of this bullshit. Me being the stupid ass for BUYING and using the recommended parts. I posted screen shots straight off their website that 100% contradicted what EVERYONE WAS TELLING ME. Summit sure didn't like that.
Long story short, Summit contacted me and admitted to listing wrong information, apologized for their tech support not knowing what the hell they're talking about. They sent me the parts I should have had if their information wasn't incorrect, over $500 worth of springs, lifters, etc. But gee guys, I thought I was the dumbass.
Here we go again. I put a Wiseco piston in an FL350 exactly as their instructions say to, jet it properly, and it destroys itself. IT'S GOTTA BE MY FAULT. Look at the two threads I posted. NO ONE Reads what I type.
OK onto the next "CURE" Your compression must be too high. WHY? How'd it get too high? Heads never been machined, cylinder has only been bored. Someone on here said an 81mm bore isn't going to cause my problems. According to my calculations it'll raise compression ratio .4 from stock. So why did Honda lower the compression from 6.7:1 to 6:1? Going from 78.5 to 81mm raises back to 6.4:1. And yes, not that anyone will read it) I didn't and don't plan to cc everything to find my exact compression ratio. I know the aftermarket head and base gaskets are thicker than stock, and there are manufacturing intolerances.
I read on here that one guy claims to run several FL350's with Wiseco pistons at .004 clearance in the sand dunes at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) (Wide Open Throttle) for years with not one failure, in a thread where no one has a clear answer as to why they keep melting theirs. I'm blown away how he makes this claim but never actually HELPS by saying what he does that no one else is doing AND no one asked him. that's not making this site a useful resource.
Sorry to vent. I've loved 2 strokes all my life. My uncle had a small Engine junkyard behind his rental equipment shop and I'd go there every day in the summer and do whatever I wanted with the junked stuff. And I've owned a lot of two strokes. I've wanted an Odyssey for 40 years, I never knew they were such pieces of shit. I've seen people ride these all day at riding spots, never seen one being towed back.
But don't worry y'all I'm just a dumb ((Bad Word)) and it's all my ignorant mistakes.
Oh yea, I'm afraid to say it but I ordered an EGT gauge. AND NO, I'M NOT GOING TO USE IT FOR TUNING. I'M GOING TO USE IT TO SHUT IT DOWN BEFORE IT MELTS DOWN.
And to CO, I appreciate you, at least you read and come back with good ideas.
I never checked it.
Thanks for studying what I say. Most people on forums don't even read it but respond anyway.[/quote]
You get 5-10 hrs of run time by keep filling the gas tank and keep riding.
What is your actual compression, assume nothing, have you checked the deck height someone might have machined the bottom or top of the cylinder, this will change the compression even with a STOCK head.
Post a picture of the head your running top and bottom the PRE-RECALL heads has straight fins they were higher compression they had a TON of problems with them. The newer style heads has the curved cooling fins to scoop more air and Honda lowered the compression.
I ALWAYS CC the heads to find the exact CC's machined or not. Someone could have put your head in a lathe and taken .20 off the gasket surface you would have no idea.
What head gasket you running, measure the thickness, compare to stock, I have had a bunch of 350's come across my bench where the owner was running 1 layer of a 3 layer head gasket for higher compression.
If your running a gravity feed carb you have the needle and seat for a gravity feed carb installed, Verify you have the correct setup.
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