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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 7:18 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
King Kx wrote:
I'm sure if you left your power bloc out in the elements for years, uncoverd, open to the elements, it would look much like that comet does. That is not normal wear by any means. As you probably remember from our previous debates on these that I am familiar with these. I have made up a couple tools to aid in disassembly and would be willing to go through this unit and see if it is salvagable. You can pm me and I'll give you my adress to ship it to, if you would like.

Like all moving parts, friction will cause wear and require maintaince. I have worn the slider buttons on mine but have not really noticed any performance issues with trail riding. Most performance issues are due to incorrect clutching from day one. (yes binding bushings and arms will cause performance issues, but is usually drastic) I usaully wear out the faces (where the belt rides) on mine.


Exactly.... the same explanation I get each time I see one in this condition, should of could of would of.... bottom line is in the real world the majority of the clutches I have seen look like the above for what ever reason, I have let power bloc clutches go that bad, they work just fine in that type environment, you might see some slight scuffing on the weight blocks but they still function without problems, when the clutch faces are worn out on the PB the rest of the clutch is only about 30% worn.. Its a shame the PB's faces are no longer as thick as the ones they made in the 70's you could put them on a lathe and true them up and make the clutch life last 2x as long.

When I get this clutch off the crank I will ship to you asap for a tune up :-)
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Nuke Em
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:50 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2004 8:45 pm
Posts: 2243
I personally like the full tune ability of the 102C, but I am weird like that, lol. I have a couple of "Heel Clicker" setups too. Anyone that runs a 102C, especially in wet/muddy environments should run covers!!!!! It will save a lot of wear and tear on everything, not to say that you will no longer need to do routine maintenance, just that the comet lube will last longer on the parts! I have a couple of them and they do work great.


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Nuke Em wrote:
I personally like the full tune ability of the 102C, but I am weird like that, lol. I have a couple of "Heel Clicker" setups too. Anyone that runs a 102C, especially in wet/muddy environments should run covers!!!!! It will save a lot of wear and tear on everything, not to say that you will no longer need to do routine maintenance, just that the comet lube will last longer on the parts! I have a couple of them and they do work great.


Agreed the covers are the way to go! Should be standard on every one they shipped.

Please EDIT your post and upload that pic again?
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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Ok by now after seeing the video you know the Engine has to come out and apart so lets have at it .

Whilst removing the Engine I discovered their has been plenty of Jerry rigging one on this Pilot, super skillbilly style, first thing that's gotta go is the battery, one of the metal spacers that keeps you from crushing the rubber is completely missing they used a BENT bolt and locktite, the other bolt is the wront type and length, hare will be buying 2 new bolts and two new spacers.

TWO 90115-HA7-670 Bolt, Flange 2.37

TWO 96500-06028-07 Bolt, Flange 0.88


Humans are a funny breed, sometimes, more often than NOT we create more problems than we solve, their is no disputing that Honda's reliability is LEGENDARY, why for a FEW dollars REMOVE that Honda LEGENDARY RELIABILITY ?
WHY plan a trip, load up, drive to the ride area without that reliability?


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:11 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
You probably also noticed in the above pic he is missing the plastic battery box that PROTECTS the battery and keeps it TIGHT in the battery box hare will be buying one of these too battery box 31525-VM0-000 Tray, Battery 7.55

Why not protect the 60.00 battery?

Humans are a funny breed, sometimes, more often than NOT we create more problems than we solve, their is no disputing that Honda's reliability is LEGENDARY, why for a FEW dollars REMOVE that Honda LEGENDARY RELIABILITY ?
WHY plan a trip, load up, drive to the ride area without that reliability?


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:18 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Next is remove the air box but wait its missing parts and skillbilly'd together too, seems the metal spacer is missing here too so someone put locktite on the threads so the bolt wont fall out, it didnt it did twist off in the plastic when it was time to remove the bolt, I will order the metal spacer and new CORRECT bolt then JB weld the brass insert into the air box.

19052-MB4-880 Collar, Canister Mounting 2.26

96500-06018-07 Screw, Pan 0.76



Humans are a funny breed, sometimes, more often than NOT we create more problems than we solve, their is no disputing that Honda's reliability is LEGENDARY, why for a FEW dollars REMOVE that Honda LEGENDARY RELIABILITY ?
WHY plan a trip, load up, drive to the ride area without that reliability?


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Next is to remove the gas tank, you guessed it the tank was installed with all the wrong bolts, the replacement bolts are too short and only catch a few threads.

TWO 96500-08014-07 Bolt, Flange 0.88 each
TWO 96500-08030-07 Bolt, Flange 0.88 each
TWO 96300-08045-07 Bolt, Flange 2.70 each

Their is only 5 bolts required but the pic is not clear what bolts are what so I ordered the one extra bolt (.88) just to ensure I get the correct bolts, no doubt this extra bolt can be used elsewhere on this Pilot, their is plenty of other OEM bolts missing....


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:32 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Not sure why their is rust inside this cooling system their is nothing inside the system that CAN RUST.

Maintaining the Pilot cooling system is SO SIMPLE all you have to do is buy a gallon of quality GREEN type antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water then mix it 50/50, then remove the Pilot seat and drain your cooling system and refill with the new once a year, don't forget to remove the over flow bottle, drain, rinse and refill too, if you do this you will NEVER have a cooling system problem like rust or dirt inside, you also should carry extra mixed coolant in your spare tools box so if your on a ride trip and for some strange reason need some you have it...


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Remove the recoil from the frame is easy the plastic nut that holds it on is MISSING their is a huge cut in the rubber hose, how you think that happen, I am no detective but ASSume that at one time the recoil end fell out of the frame mount and dropped down and was rubbing on the axle and wore a hole in the hose that protects the recoil rope ?


Add the nut to your list Hare 28464-950-003 Nut 1.48

The tube is 10 bux I think we can salvage the old one by sliding a larger hose over the old one to serve as a dust cover?

The part number is if you decide to get one 95005-12335-30 Tube 9.51


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:40 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Engine bolts are all installed and tight, once remove can see a few of the dowels are missing and damaged.

FOUR 94301-14200 Pin A, Dowel 0.98 each


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:41 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Engine out and on the bench, recoil removed, all kinds of oil here, seal was leaking..


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:42 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Recoil basket removed see the rust in the lips of the seal?


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:43 pm 
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Location: Chicago
See the rust on the recoil basket seal surface area?


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:44 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Here is a new one, why did someone drill and tap, add a 1/8" plug to this case?


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:46 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Side cover removed, little rust on the balancer gears, water pump shaft, behind flywheel, don't see any real damage the rust will be removed and the parts reused.


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:47 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Looks like a home made spacer washer made out of plastic on the primary starter gear..

90414-GE0-000 Washer 1.59


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:51 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Oil in balancer case nasty looking..

Cases ready to split soon as I get clutch puller and pull clutch I can remove the other bolts that hold crank cases together and split the cases... Send puller ASAP


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:00 pm 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Anybody keeping track of parts list to UN Skillbilly this Pilot and restore the Honda LEGENDARY reliably?


Last time I went to the bar I spent more than that on my first round....


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Sunblock
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:36 am
Posts: 1346
Location: Benson, NC
Nice to see I am not the only one stuck in the garage this weekend.
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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
Whilst waiting on clutch puller I tore into the rear end, on Hare's list was new trans seals, fix lower links, damaged frame...

First is to remove the whole suspension system, first thing I notice is all the lug nuts on the rear tires are NOT Honda, assume someone lost the Honda nuts then just found something to fit as replacement, one stud was replaced with a bolt and nut.


The bearings on the rear right side are lose and need replaced...


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:25 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Lower link long bolt (blue) is bent on both sides, cant get them out they are rusted in.


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:27 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Here is a tip for all you dumbasses that keep losing all the stock bolts then replace them with shit that don't fit right, SOON AS YOU TAKE SOMETHING APART put the bolts back where they came from, guess what, when you go to reassemble the bolts will be their!

It only takes seconds!


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:30 pm 
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Location: Chicago
The hoser CV puller was able to pull the stubs out but they fought me every inch of the way...

More info on the puller http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=454


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:31 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Final shaft


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hoser
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:37 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Axle stubs cleaned up...

What was it you wanted me to do here use the NEW stubs and final shaft you sent with the parts, your spare trans needs them...

I havent cleaned up the final shaft yet to take a closer look but I will.

What I would do if it was mine, clean everything up, use a stainless tooth brush to clean splines in final shaft, wash really good, install new trans seals and refill trans, start Engine put into gear and run it 5 min to ensure seals don't leak, reinstall axle stubs with JB Weld or equivalent on the splines, continue to use current stub shafts and final shaft until you need to change the seals again or split the cases.


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