Bought Pilotnuts old Pilot from him so time ago and have just gotten around to CSI it for repairs, I documented some of this in my PROJECT PILOT #3 ODYKID and wanted to start a entire new thread on it.The pilot when I got it wouldn't roll at all, I quickly noticed a rear caliper issue as the pads were worn uneven,missing springs for cable return and idiot light, the e-brake cable was siezed tight-but little did I know it was something else totally-ok,NO PROBLEM, LETS LOOK AND SEE WHAT ELSE IS GOING ON-Frame in front has taken a hit as the front bumper mounts are ripped off and there is a noticeable dent in bottom tube,needed a service badly-air filter was clogged wih mud terribly-needs front end and rear end work, skid plate missing,belt bad,tie rods bent,spindle bent on left side,tie rod ends worn,missing cotter pins, castle nuts,a-arms bent LS,sperical bearings siezed rear and front arms, 2 bent rear suspension arms,CV boots bad-CV's NEED SERVICING on both sides,no battery,these just appart from a quick look so far.
I started with the rear end first as it wouldn't roll.Took the rear caliper off, brake shoes were aftermarket and the e-brake cable was siezed.Removed the caliper and for the hell of it tryed to spin wheel, wouldn't spin, hmmmmm.CSI and found the left side bearings inside carrier totally siezed solid-so that explains it.REMOVED THE BEARING CARRIER and then noticed the upper arm was not falling, CSI'd that and found the sperical bearings wiped out, the arm wasn't moving up and down at all, need to replace the bushings or the complete arm.Also noticed the upper tie rod on the bearing carrier was toast-needs replacement.OK moving on, figured the rear was apart, now is the time to check the axles stubs and cv's, the boots were torn anyway and after reading this off the tech PAGE

http://pilotodyssey.com/800reasons.htm

there was no way I wouldn't do this.Good thing I did, the CV came right apart in my hand, boot tore away and the axle fell right out of the stub, there was no c-clip inside it to hold the ball bearing into the axle stub-good thing I was checking huh?Shocks appear to have leaked oil out of them and I think Pilotnut told me they were in need of a service-I'll replace them both sides with spares I have that Hoser did for me some time back-

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3109

SO FAR WE HAVE THE FOLLOWING on left side;
wheel bearings and seals,cv boots,spherical seals, circlip for axle stub,upper arm replacement,2 bent susupension arms lower,rear brake kit,e-brake cable and a upper tie rod for the bearing carrier.Order from SERVICE is coming soon indeed.Heres a picture of the rear before removal of items:

Moving on to the right rear side now-bearings carrier is fine, no deviaions in seals or bearings,CV boots torn and being held on with zip ties-rear arms have been replaced with HOSERIZED ones so nothing needed-upper arm sperical arms will need to be cleaned and lubed as the travel on them isnt smooth-a clear sign of dirt and debris inside of them-axles will need cleaning and grease/boot replacement.Order from SERVICE following for his side:
cv boots outer and inner kits, spherical seals.
Now-as I said I have both axles out but the stubs are still in trans, I had one hell of a hard time getting them out as I have no welder here to fab a puller-I do it the old fashion way of pulling it-LOL.It turns out the old fashioned way works with a generous dousing of PB Blaster-stuff really works.I wish I had a puller like Hoser does in this thread:

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=454

So I got the left side out after 3 days of soaking, and then used a brass punch and inserted it through the trans till it hit the other axle stub and popped it out-both clips at end are to be replaced and the splines are rusted -but not peened over and still in good shape-I cleaned the with a wire wheel and then cleaned the thru shaft with a steel brush/toothbrush/brake cleaner and vacuum, then ANTI SIEZED the hell out it for axle insertion later.When I insert them I will doing this mod to them as it is documented that it helps keeps debris from the axle splines:

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=456

Moved on to the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) now- did a compression check(152psi)and leak down test(5 pounds for 30 minutes then I let the pressure out) drained balancer and trans fluids, coolant,and took rad out for flow test/boiling at rad shop.Fuel filter is black and clogged-air filter is totally clogged-removed the air box and checked the intake, was clean(surprising but nothing there)as was the carb slide-removed and cleaned air filter a must.Coolant resevior is cracked, missing the rubber grommet that holds it into the air box and has duct tape over hole-needs replacement.Fuel doesn't smell but I'm going to drain it and check fuel cell for rust/sediments.Also the fuel filter rubber is dry rotted and shot, need new one.Heres a list of iems ordered for here:
fuel filter
fuel filter rubber
resevior for coolant
rubber grommet for rese
fuel line to carb
I run Mobil 1 synthetic oils in my rides and will replace both balancer and trans with this, fuel is mixed at 32:1 AMSOIL.Tank was drained and cleaned, re-installed and filled with fresh fuel.Green antifreeze replaced old coolant-alitttle over 2 gallons if my memory serves me for a complete fill of the system(don't quote me here).I of coarse filled after replacing rese anf fuel filter/line.

Now-I forgot in my thread to mention 1 thing, when I had the left side apart I had remembered a posting on the board about driven clutches not shifing all he way out, so I went to the tech pages and found this thread:

http://pilotodyssey.com/drivenclutch.htm

I figured I should check mine as I have the access to it currently, I did remove it and indeed I had the same issue as the thread, my plastic sleeve that inserts into the spring was too too tight,so I did exactly as the thread and used a 3 stone hone and honed my spring on the inside, and also I sanded the plastic sleeve so as to take a small amount of surface area off it, now it slides right into the spring with just a light amount of friction, before I had to use a pry bar and a vise to get it out, I painted the spring, removed all the old grease and re-apllied fresh grease to the shaft and re-installed.Also put on a fresh DAYCO belt.

Pilot number four?

How do you decide which one to take riding?Flip a coin.

Do you sell them or do you have all four?

I'd like to have four,then i could take three friends riding!

next I went to the front end.I had noticed right off the bat the tie rods were bent both sides, and the front brakes were poor on the handle.I jacked up the front end and immed noticed the front spherical bearings were wiped out on the left side upper arm-it also was bent back and the ball joint boot on the lower was dry rotted and being held in place with a zip tie,no good on all accounts.As I beagn the process of removing the arms I noticed the tie rod end would not come out of the spindle housing, hmmmmm,well the spindle housing was bent badly as well, almost to the point where removal of he joint would have been impossible without cutting or heating up and rebending of he spindle, it will need a total replacement.As the process went along, the brake are in need of replacement and the hubs needed cleaning and a light sanding of the brake surfaces(mud and grime buildup).I happened to have a spare set of a-arms I purchased from Odykid so I used them with the urethane bushing kits Hare had gotten for us:

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2798

these work great and I highly recommend them.I also bled all the old dirty, cloudy fluid from the master and replaced it-the adjusters were locked up as well so I removed them for servicing.Brakes shoes need replacing.
Next is he right side-same deal here, he spherical joints are shot in boh arms, the lower ball joint was bad,and the wheel bearings on this side are loose and bad-seals will be replaced too.
So, needed from SERVICE is following:
front brake kit left/right sides-think these can be ordered still as a kit-
LS spindle
Wheel bearings/seals
tie rods(4)
I have a set of Hoserized tie rods I will install they are twice he thickness of stock.
I will install the urethane bushing kits on both sides with the new arms from Odykid I purchased.
Service and re-install adjusters
I'll replace both front shocks with newer ones as the rears were bad-the left side shock appears to have a bent shaft as well from the damage received prior to me purchasing.

On to cosmetics-the plastics on this Ody have seen better days-I happen to have many spare sets here so I removed and replaced basicly all the fenders except for the right side panel-I replaced both headlight bezels as well-the old plastics are for sale here:

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=5248

when I was working on he front end, as I stated earlier the front bumper mounts are ripped off and the bottom holes have snapped bolts in them, I'll drill,tap, re-thread and install new bolts, the top mounts are going to have to wait till my welder is available.The skid plate on the rear has been ripped off, I have a spare one here so I'll do the same and drill,tap,rethread the mounting holes for installation.
I also installed a dual air intake system on the Pilot-I got the bracket from Cafercr and the filers are from Odykid, they are K&N filters.The tubing is RIGID 2 1/2 shop vac tubing I purchased at HOME DEPOT-slid right on the pipe.I have also fixed many many small things such as headlight brackets-numerous snapped bolts,re-routing wire harness, small things but all needed.

took some pictures but accidentally deleted them will post tomorrow again.

Pilot number four?

How do you decide which one to take riding?Flip a coin.

Do you sell them or do you have all four?

I'd like to have four,then i could take three friends riding!

pilot #4 yes-I have 3 here Hoser has one at his compound.I also have 5 350's all complete and ready to ride.I do not get to rides as my busy work schedule prevents me usually-perhaps his year as it is slow in my industry.I do sell them at times, whenever I get a itch too-looking for 1?

Today I worked on draining and replacing brake fluid again-I already had done this servicing on the front brakes when I changed the spindle-the fluid was dark brown and really in bad shape in the rear master-I would recommend changing yours every year, the brake even has better draw on the caliper with fresh fluid.I also anti-siezed the litle top cap bolts as these are notorious for stripping out---
Ordered new throttle cable today for the 39PWK swap and have a airbox lid from AUSSIEDUNER in route with a dual air intake designed.Shifter selector handle has been sticking so I went and replaced with a new one today--

Got my AUSSIEDUNER lids in yesterday-39 PWK carb and a SERVICE HONDA order of little nuts and bolts for reflectors, plastics,floor tub,head net,and seat bolts.I will install the air lid and jet the stock carb for the time being-I have been thinking of doing the rad relocation on this ride as it really eases IMO the access to the carb-might be in the future plans.I also need to order 2 new tires for the front as they have numerous plugs on the sidewalls which isnt going to fly with me-I'll keep the old ones as spares just in case as hey have plenty of thread left.

Ok, finished the dual air inlets system finally, I had to rejet the stock carb as I am so busy with work the 39mm mod will have to wait for a spell, and I wanted to see how the stock carb would perform anyway-the internals I had when I started where:
J35A NEEDLE on top clip??????
stock slow jet
140 main
air mixture screw 1 1/4 out
I (as per the chat and tech pages) went up a size on the main and lowered the clip-thus rasing the needle for more fuel.I did the old fashioned method of this by spinning the carb in the boots on the Pilot, I would tell all if you plan on doing this IMO you need a good nights sleep as it can turn your day around for sure-it isnt easy but I really didnt want to start taking the whole air box out-etc etc so I did it that way.I ran the carb out of fuel before I did this (just for the newbies out there)Current jetting is slightly changed:
J35A needle on second clip
142 main
stock slow jet
air mixture screw 1 3/4 out
Plug chops are nice and tan-it was a chilly day here when I performed this so I am going to have to fiddle with the air mixture as the weather turns warmer, but current jetting was spot on, from dead stop to 1/4 throttle it blubbered ever so slightly on dead start, then crisp response to 1/2-1/2 to full throttle it pulled throught with flying colors,crisp throttle response and as I said nice tan color on the plug-smoke ring was alittle wide but as I said I'll adjust with the air mixture screw for that.I am happy with the jetting and performance of the carb so far, but a ride will also be a test/tune as well for a total review of the stock carbs performance.
I also installed the new CROW Enterprises harness I had made-for the 93 bucks shipped price tag they are a great harness, they will custom make any color scheme for you and they are nice with a 3 inch strap, bolt right on, PM me if you need the part #'s from them.Sure beat TEAM TECH prices!!

some pictures of the finished product

Bought 2 new tires for this ride-22-7-10 Maxxis Sure traks.I will be using the stock rims on the tires.
Pilot runs awesome and the dual air inlets wasn't that hard to do either.

Going to get a YODA LT KIT for this Pilot as well, like the kit too much not too install.

YODA front end kit is ordered for this ride-spoke to YODA today,I am going to ship a FOX AIR to him so he can install on his jig/frame for proper shock mount fabbing,we have had to redo 2 sets so far and he doesnt have s hock for the fabbing, he wants to make it right and progress onward from here,which I am appreciative tosay the least.I really like the kit he makes for the $$$ it is a great INEXPENSIVE mod(from others out there-atvr-liewire)and installation/adjustments are easy.I have been recently working on adjusting the shcok rebound from FOX for the next kit, which I will report to you guys asap-I currently run the 60/40 set-up which is basicly a stock setting from FOX, for a recreational rider,terrian rocky,hills,230 pounds rider,but I will bump it up to MORE AGGRESIVE damping for this kit,see how it goes.I am hoping by stiffening the shock I do not get the same shake I had in the kit on my COLORADO pilot, which was solved by installation of the fox airs and tires as perviously posted.

Ever get a chance to measure that tow change for me?
Thanks
Redman

I am so sorry-I forgot to, dammit!!!
I was there all week too, shoot.Let me ask, you needed me to measure the toe change from stock to the LT KIT correct?Anything else while I have out?
I do apologize,I totally forgot to do it for you-you have asked 2 times I think-sorry.Man getting old just plain sucks doesn't it?

I just want to know how much tow change there is from full droop to full bump with the long travel fox shocks and shock brackets installed...I don't figure there would be too much difference from stock with just the arms and stock shocks, but curious how much there is in the long travel set up which is the one i'm most interested in...
Thanks
Redman

I never measured toe change, no ill handling so no need to investigate non problems but I think Lee covered toe change in the paper he wrote give it a read http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/view ... hlight=lee

I think every question a person could ask has already been asked and answered here
http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=3810

How much more you want to beat this DEAD HORSE, your right in line with the darkside IMO ANYBODY that reads this post needs to go read the two other post I gave links too completely so they can see exactly what I am talking about beating the dead horse.

My best advice at this point would be NOT to buy a YODA LT kit, your just to dense to "get it" you need to call ATV Racing and order one of their kits! http://atvracing1.com/safety.htm (623) 516-8640

Seems to me that you are the one that's too "dense" to get it...I am ONLY trying to get information that has NOT been given yet...The only info that remotely covers what I am wanting to know is here,in one of the links you posted...
quote/)Toe change
a)The stock FL400 has a toe change of 30mm for each side, the 400EX 31mm. The proposed modifications to the Pilot would have a one side toe change of 72mm ( 56mm at bump and 55mm at rebound, 6mm negative in-between). This is on the excessive side.
b)Rebound toe change is detrimental to driving stability.
c)Some method to reduce this is needed and was assumed from the beginning of the investigation.
unquote...
This info was given on +2 arms with stock shocks...If this is the case,then bumpsteer would be so excessive that it would be nothing less than a battle to drive on hard pack....I have the right,just as anyone else,to know everything I can find out about a product before I buy...If you can show me where the info I am asking for has already been posted,then I will apologise and never mention it again...If you can't,then let Mudbogger get me the info I am asking for....I am not asking you for anything,so why should this even concern you? Man Hoser,you act like there's something you are trying to hide or something....You personally endorsed this kit and should be more than willing to do what is required to make sales for the guy producing rather than steering people in the other direction....I have called ATVR and they answered every question I had...Just because YOU haven't noticed bumpsteer when riding with your +2 setup doesn't mean it's not there...Have you had the Yoda kit on hardpack yet? If no, then your opinion of what problem is or isn't there or does or doesn't need discussing doesn't matter,because you don't know......
I know exactly what bumpsteer is, what causes it, and the effects of it...I have dealt with it before and know how ill it cam make a 400# quad handle,and can only imaging what it would do to one of these 700# pilots...If you know the answer to my question,then answer it,but if you don't,then stay out of it and let Mudbogger answer it for me,but don't call me DENSE!!!!!! Freakin PISS ME OFF!!!!
REDMAN

You wont let it go you keep asking the same questions over and over you WONT LISTEN!

I doubt you have ANY intentions of buying one of these kits it looks to us your just trying to start shit by asking the same questions OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER!

I hope your pissed off I hope you NEVER COME BACK TO MY SITE that is my intentions insult your dumb ass until you NEVER return, after reviewing most your post on this site I can see we wont be losing anything but someone trying to stir up shit on this site and someone that just wont get it !

For anybody else that is interested in this kit I will say it AGAIN its the SAME kit as Redriders buddy made for me back in the SPRING of 2003, the tie rods and arm lengths are the SAME, TOE CHANGE has never been an issue if it was I would have corrected that problem SIX YEARS AGO and would NOT have drove the Pilot with a toe change problem for THOUSANDS OF MILES, I hope this clears up the toe change question for even the dumbest toe change homos that are looking for a number, the NUMBER don't matter, their is no need for me to waste my time walking out to my shop to see if their is even any toe change to measure, the Pilot handles perfectly lmao

Their is NOTHING to hide here many people have driven my Pilot since the arm mod with no complaints and nothing but praise how well it works the only complaints come from morons that don't listen and don't own one lol, my Pilot has been driven on EVERY TYPE of terrain you can name, hard soft wet dry up down east west north south.

Go buy a kit from ATV Racing http://atvracing1.com/safety.htm (623) 516-8640 and NEVER POST HERE AGAIN I don't need any info you might have to offer!

As witnessed in this thread viewtopic.php?t=3267 I had a lot of toe change in this kit from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts! But The only time I had an issue is when the right wheel would lock up from over-turning. The only time I ever had any bump-steer issue was when I steered myself into and bumped a fence post!
Don't ask me to go out and measure my toe change LOL you can see by the photo's and video's I have posted here and on youtube...
As far as quads go I am new to riding them and I have always felt the bumps in the handle bars as I ride... My newest toy has +2+1 a-arms and It doesn't ride any worse than the stock one I had as far as the feeling in the grips... It does ride smoother over whoops and rough terrain!!! Beside why do you think they sell and make a steering stabilizer??? I seem to recall ATVRacing even made one for the pilot which some felt they needed after installing their long travel kit???

I suggest you make a trip and RIDE something that has this kit on it!!! It is the only way to really know!!!
Until then quit asking the same questions that the answers are only opinions!!! Because you will never get the answer YOU want!!!

And I think I have enough seat time to qualify my post!

The only reason I keep asking is to find out...The +2 arms you run is not the Yoda kit with long travel brackets and fox shocks..It is just a +2 arm and that's it...I just read some more from the Link Turbo posted, and you asked him the same question I am asking more than once, and even stated if the change was excessive,something was wrong...You didn't ask how it felt or what his opinion was, you asked for numbers...Same thing I am wanting to know, so please don't criticize me for it...I just don't understand what the big deal is with you and me wanting info on this kit...It seems like it offends you for someone to ask or something...
As for a steering stabilizer,that is for steering feedback, not bumpsteer...Feedback is caused by ruts,rocks,and obstacles you roll over,and the forces are transferred to the wheel/handlebars..Bunpsteer is caused by tow change through suspension cycle,and can cause your machine to go haywire while landing from a jump or other situation that causes the suspension to travel...
If I read correctly Turbo,the tow change was a major issue for you, and you spent quite a lot of effort trying to correct it....
I am not here to stirr up crap, I am just trying to find out facts before I buy, and if the bumpsteer is as excessive as I am afraid it will be, then you are right hoser,I probably won't buy one of the kits....If it is excessive,I wouldn't suggest anyone else buy one either,but anyone as much as myself has a right to know what the numbers are...Especially before spending a grand on something I don't even know if it's going to work to my liking or not...I have been more than polite in my posts,and patient to say the least...I am new here and don't have a bunch to add,but i'm learning and do more reading than commenting...I found out a long time ago that if I don't know what I am talking about, it's best to stay quiet,but I do know about what I am asking about, and all I want is an honest answer without name calling...That's childish...
Redman