Pilot Axle Stub Removal - CV Puller By hoser.. Innovation in progress

Since I have the Engine out of my Pilot waiting on parts I wanted to touch up the
frame paint where the sand has sand blasted it off and remove my axle stubs to
clean and lube up with clean fresh grease so I fabricated this puller.

42220-HE0-013

As I suspected they need cleaned and greased again, its been 3 years, don't know
why Honda didnt install a seal on the stub shaft guess I will put a bog gob of
silicone at the very end to help seal it up.

I had to weld a small bead on the inside so it would fall into the groove on the
stub shaft and not slide off the end, the puller seem to work pretty good don't know
if my slide hammer has enough weight to remove one that was rusted in real bad.

Once one side was out I used a 3/4" brass rod about 8" long to TAP the other stub
shaft out .

Nice tool you got there, haha
Wanna rent it out?

That is a great looking tool, I could have used that during my recent rebuild. I never could get one axle out.

Can you take a picture looking directly into the "hole" where the axles go in the tranny. With both axles out does it go all the way through??

Yes the trans drive is hollow. that's how you are able to pull one stub and tap the other one out from the other side

now that sucks..I didnt know it went all the way through....I had one out and couldnt get the other out. Didnt realize you could tap the other one out..... live and learn I guess

Yes it is hollow all the way through here is a picture of my old final shaft , I whish you
would have asked when you were working on yours I have had mine apart 4 times
now and been inside the trans twice.. http://pilotodyssey.com/800reasons.htm

When I put mine back together this time I greased inside the final shaft and all of the stub
shaft but the last 1/2 by the CV cup then I put a big bead of silicone around that area so
it will form a seal and help keep the grease in and moisture out.

The black is my CV stub the white is the silicone and the red is the grease, hope it
seals or helps to seal better I will try to get a better picture of the other side later
on before it goes back together.

You install the stub shaft when the silicone is still wet so it can form around and create the seal.

Do you think there is room for a rubber seal like a ball joint boot over that joint?

How much space is there between the tranny case and the end of the CV housing? Looks like at least .25 inches or more. That should be enough room if a boot with the right diameter is available.

Can you measure the diameter of the CV joint housing and the shaft coming out of the tranny

I'll do some searching for a boot of some sort

One possiability would be use a large diameter "O" ring bihind the hub to seal the stub shaft.

maybe a big neoprene or viton washer that would seal around the shaft and then compress up against the tranny housing. It would wear as that axle turned but could be changed every season or so as a maintenance item.

Hoser how about some measurements since you have yours apart?????

Update: I took the trans apart again the silicone seal works perfectly...

viewtopic.php?t=3004

See here also viewtopic.php?t=456

Here is a update to this thread, I found another Pilot trans that was more stubborn than normal, this is Odykids trans he sold to Mike, these are MY axles he sold to me

First I put my home made axle puller on and tried both CV's no go.

Then I sprayed it with PBblaster every day for a week, no go.

Since that was not working I decided I better kick it up a notch so I took some silicone and made a DAM so I could puddle up the PBblaster nice and deep to ensure it would seep into the axle stub.

Since I was working 7 days a week at the time I let it soak for a week then tried the puller, presto out it came after getting aggressive with the slide hammer.

Nice and rusty.

I took a brass punch and tried to beat out the other CV from this side, it was not moving so I cleaned it out real good and put the trans back on the bench, filled up the final shaft with PBblaster to let it soak another week then I will try it again, if it don't move I will get by buddys BIG air hammer and let it ratt tat tat for a while see if it will knock loose.

After cleaning up the stub I was able to remove the splines are not that bad very usable I do need to replace the snap rings on the end they are too rusted to be reused.

That is nasty.......

I bought enough CV boots to do all three pilots and plan to do them this year, pretty sure none of the axles have ever been out, but the boots are really aged from their extensive exposure to the elements (like every other piece of rubber or plastic on them. No failed boots yet, but I can see it coming.....

You ever think about making and selling the puller you made to those of us who are welding impaired?

My puller can really be improved on I bet Speedchaser could machine something more solid with less give when you start with the slide hammer..

You wont have to pull the stubs from the trans to change CV boots but you will need to pull them if your trans seals start to leak.

Yeah, I know I won't HAVE to pull them, but I'd like to pull, lube and seal them anyway since I'm going to have them apart.

Since they haven't had much exposure to water, they may not be that bad, but you never know.

I would love for SPEED to fab a puller for these-I would purchase 1 in aheartbeat-make them universal for slide hammers?

I wish I had one now!! LOL I will make some changes to mine tomorrow!!!