Hello to all, I have been working alot lately so work on the odyssey has been slow.

Here are pics of where I am at as of this last Sunday.

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Wow that is sharp, nice fabbing. Lookin good!!

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Thank you Stix, much appreciated.

Last set.

Looking really good, the head looks like something Honda would have made.

Thank you Hoser, I appreciate it very much.

that head makes the machine.very nice work

Here are some pics of where I got to last weekend.
I could not stand it so I took a break from the wiring and put the steering wheel on and assembled part of it.

Ok Wiring.
I have decided to use the odyssey regulator, it will be better wiring wise. Less splices.

The one big difference between the odyssey and the pilot wiring is on the 1985 Odyssey FL350R there are 4 wires coming from the ignition switch, 1 power in, 1 power out, 1 ground in and 1 ground out, ground is applied when the switch is off and power with key on. The pilot switch also has 4 wires but 2 power in and 2 power out, both powered key on.

The main thing this boiles down to is on the odyssey ground is applied to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to shut the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) down through either the run or ignition switch. On the pilot power is taken away from the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to shut the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) down through either switch. The wire is black and white on both machines

To use a pilot ignition switch you would have to run a ground through a toggle switch to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) to shut the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) down.

I have decided to use the odyssey switch, I am going to add a relay for the second power source.
The only bad thing is, from the factory either the ingnition switch or run switch will shut the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) down on both the pilot and odyssey. With this setup the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) will only be shut down with the key, I might add a toggle switch on top of the ign. switch. Not sure about that yet.

Have a great weekend everybody.

Pilot harness showing timer, coil, CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), regulator and tail light plugs.

The 2 wire and 4 wire pilot CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) plugs are not needed, the odyssey harness parts used will take the place of these.

The 2 wire plug, gray wire was to the reverse switch and CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), disabled. The black and white wire was the power wire to shut the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) down on the pilot also not needed. I am going to use the black and white wire for my water pump power, it is key on power.

The 4 wire plug, black and yellow-coil, blue and yellow-pulse, yellow-alternator, green-ground. I will use the odyssey harness parts I cut out in place of this harness.

I have taken out the gray and black fuel sensor wire section that went to this plug and will tap back in to it at the timer unit for the fuel sensor hookup.

On the pilot harness I will use the old coil ground for my fuel sensor ground, the odyssey harness parts cut out have the coil ground on them.

I cut out the pilot regulator plug and will extend the wires to tap in to the odyssey regulator harness parts.
Green to green ( ground ), black to black ( ignition power ), Red to red and white ( battery power ).

When I cut the odyssey harness parts out that I needed I was careful to leave the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), regulator, coil, alternator, pulse generator and grounds part of the harness as complete as possible.

I am going to cut out and use the old pilot black and yellow coil wire for the fuel senor, I will splice it in to the gray and black wire at the timer unit.

Hello to all, this is where I have gotten to as of last weekend.

I did not have exact wire colors in some spots but the gauge is the same.

Regulator, alternator, pulse generator, CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), coil, check unit, fuel sensor, grounds and tail light all extended and spliced in.

The original odyssey wire harness has a ground that bolts to the roll cage at the top right air dam mount bolt, I left that one and added a second one to the left top air dam mount as well.

I left the odyssey black and white wire to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) fully intact and have ran it along the whole pilot harness to hook up to the odyssey ignition switch. The odyssey CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) is grounded thru this wire to kill the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )).

The pilot harness, same black and white wire also goes to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) on the pilot but it is powered not grounded. I was going to use this wire to power my water pump but it is not heavy enough gauge, I have just pulled it out of the harness but not cut it at this point. If I can not figure out something to use it for it will be removed.

Nice work on the odyssey, great job on the wiring, can't wait to see it all done.

Bob

Hello Bob, thank you very much.

Before doing the wire harness to the steering column switches I am finishing the brake connections at the steering column.

On the odyssey the rear brake line is on the right side of the steering column and the front is on the left, the pilot is the opposite.

I could either cross the hoses off of the steering wheel or cross the brake lines, crossing the brake hoses is easier but I chose to cross the lines. I think it is better.

Steve, could you list the part numbers for the fabbed pieces between the rubber and stock lines?
Are they metric 10mm to standard threads?

They are 3/16 line with 10mm by 1.0 fittings, I had to buy long lines and cut them down + reflare.
I will get the part # for the fittings, I had fun tracking those down.
All metric 10mm by 1.0 thread.

I like the pilot wheel conversion. Im doing the fl350 wheel conversion on my fl250 since I put brakes on the front. Ill have to make a thread on that as soon as all my parts come in.